The final days of my Camino pilgrimage unfolds...

I made my way out of Pontevedra by crossing over the old Roman bridge. The morning was cold and the way was routed around various road and rail constructions. Not far out of town I met two Australian couples walking to Santiago. They had very small day packs and their suitcases were being ferried ahead to their hotel. In one way I was a bit jealous that they did not have to carry their own gear and in another  way I felt that they were cheating by not carrying their own burdens. But who am I to say what is wrong or right to another's pilgrimage? I do not know what limitations they may or may not have, their internal burdens could be greater than any backpack might offer, their Camino was their own to experience as mine is to me. It was a short day of 18km (11 miles) to Brialhos and as my feet were very tired, I was glad. I now have less than 50km (2 days) left until I reach Santiago. I am surprised how quickly this is going. Katiana and Rachel decided to stop here for the night as well - they had planned to go to the next albergue. We thought others would show up as the route becomes more populated, but tonight was quite and it was only the three of us. Brialhos is a VERY small town and the grocery store was just an extra room on someones house, which they opened just so we could purchase some supplies. We shared a pilgrim's dinner of weenies, pasta and tomato sauce for the evening. I was grateful that the heat was turned on as the nights have become colder and colder.

The next day I logged 22km (13.5 miles) to Padron - only 23km (14 miles) remain to Santiago. It is hard to believe that I will be in Santiago tomorrow.  Padron has a strong historical tie to St. James as it was the first location in Spain that St. James preached and is also where the boat containing his remains was tied upon arrival to Spain. The area is also noted for growing peppers and kiwis and fields of both were in abundance. The fried peppers are a delicious dish and though most are sweet there is always at least one in the bunch that is hot and spicy, which one you will get is never assured. The albergue was full and Rachael, Katiana and I were the only women. There was a group of guys who were walking 40 - 50 km (25 - 30 miles) a day! They will make it to Santiago much quicker than I will tomorrow. The evening pilgrim meal was potatoes and mixed veggies with yogurt for dessert.

Leaving Pardon the next day I started out on my own and the guys caught up to me fairly early. I caught up to and walked with the Australian couples for a bit before we parted ways as they stopped for a coffee. The women are best friends and they talked their husbands into coming along with them. Though the men were at first a bit apprehensive, after a couple of days they were enjoying the experience immensely. For most of the walk on this section, it was on wide, well worn paths with some road walking. When I crested the hill overlooking Santiago I enjoyed a 15 minute rest and contemplated my journey along the Camino. It was hard to believe the walk was almost over in just another hour or two. The last bit of the journey threatened to rain and so I prepared my rain jacket and cast bag, just in case. I stopped at the pilgrims' office to get my certificate for completing my pilgrimage and made it to the cathedral right before the rain set in. Relief and disbelief were my new companions as I toured the cathedral and hugged the saint around the neck. I treated myself to a long hot bath  in the evening and planned a lie in for the morning.

For final closure to my Camino, I spent another day in Santiago and went to the Pilgrims' Mass at the cathedral at noon. The cathedral was packed with people, pilgrims and otherwise. The service was in Latin, so I did not really follow it word for word, but thanks was given for the pilgrims reaching their destination, a blessing was asked, and a couple of prayers were said. During the service a list of countries was read out which indicated where the pilgrims in the last 24 hours had come from. In the list for the day I attended were 17 countries. Since it was a holiday (Nov. 1 - All Saints Day), not many shops were open and so I did not get to explore as much of Santiago as I might have liked to. I had hoped that I might see some of the pilgrims I had walked with over the last 3 weeks, but I did not. The next day I said goodbye to Spain and headed back to the Netherlands to get my gear and put into motion my plans to return to the states. 

Remainder of Camino Photos Here
My Camino consisted of 397km (246 miles). I actually walked 14 days during the 3 weeks for an average of 28.4km (17.6 miles) a day. Definitely an accomplishment I will always cherish - and perhaps walk another route. :)

Though both countries are having their own financial issues and austerity looms over their heads, Spain is much less modernized and seems to be a poorer country than Portugal. Where machines are used for the majority of the agricultural work in Portugal, most is still done by hand in Spain. It is common to pass by families singing and talking to each other as they fill tubs with ears of corn while they harvest their small corn fields. My mind struggles to comprehend how this type of existence can support a family in this day and age. I also see the simplicity in their life that revolves around the corn and wonder if that simplicity brings them contentment. Can this simplicity be translated to life back in the US?

I had decided during the last few days of this journey that I would return to the states by the end of the year and would look into various options to return. I know that my return to the US will not really be the end of my journey (life itself is the journey) and that it may only be a temporary break from my travels. I know that of the traveling I have done so far that I find it the most enjoyable when I am walking and taking it at a very slow pace.



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