The Camino journey continues this week...
After 2 days checking out Porto it was time for me to get back to the Camino. I decided to hop ahead via the metro to Vila do Conde as everything between was city walking. I had planned on taking the bus to Rates (37km/22 miles: not sure how much was walking and how much was via the metro - guessing about half) since the marked Camino route does not go directly through Vila do Conde and to catch up with Bobbie. I asked a man about where to catch the bus and he, instead, gave me directions to get to the Camino - I was meant to walk to Rates. This section was all on road surface and I was very glad I took the metro for part of the way. It rained a bit throughout the day but the sun was shining upon my arrival in the early afternoon and gave me time to let my wet gear dry. Another lady from Germany had already arrived and was drying her things as well. Later in the evening 4 more pilgrims arrived - the most I had ever seen at any one time so far. I was a bit sad that I would not catch up to Bobbie and I wished her all the best and I hope she finds what she is looking for on the Camino - Bom Caminho until we meet again, my friend.
After 2 days checking out Porto it was time for me to get back to the Camino. I decided to hop ahead via the metro to Vila do Conde as everything between was city walking. I had planned on taking the bus to Rates (37km/22 miles: not sure how much was walking and how much was via the metro - guessing about half) since the marked Camino route does not go directly through Vila do Conde and to catch up with Bobbie. I asked a man about where to catch the bus and he, instead, gave me directions to get to the Camino - I was meant to walk to Rates. This section was all on road surface and I was very glad I took the metro for part of the way. It rained a bit throughout the day but the sun was shining upon my arrival in the early afternoon and gave me time to let my wet gear dry. Another lady from Germany had already arrived and was drying her things as well. Later in the evening 4 more pilgrims arrived - the most I had ever seen at any one time so far. I was a bit sad that I would not catch up to Bobbie and I wished her all the best and I hope she finds what she is looking for on the Camino - Bom Caminho until we meet again, my friend.
The next day was a 25km (15 mile) day and it was a great day for hiking. The sun was out, the temperature was comfortable and I took plenty of breaks along the way. The only downside was the 4km hill I had to climb at the very end to the Tamel albergue. This albergue became busy very quickly as pilgrims made their way up the hill. From this point on I would be lodging with two nurses from Germany (with a few exceptions). Though we would be basically taking the same path, we did not walk together. From Porto on my actual walking would be done solo, which gave me more time to reflect. The albergue was extremely full tonight as a large group of pilgrims from Italy arrived. I also met Hannah here. Hannah is from Finland and is in her late 60's and walks bent over due to an accident in which her back was injured when she was 17. She has walked the Frances route with her sister before but now she is walking solo. It is truly inspirational to see the conditions that various people overcome to make their pilgrimages.
I logged another 25km (15 mile) day the following day and made my way to Ponte de Lima through Barcelos and arrived very early to my destination for the day. In Barcelos I discovered the story as to why the cock (rooster) is the symbol of Portugal and the influence of St. James in Portugal. Since I had arrived early to Ponte de Lime and the albergue would not open until 5:00 p.m., I had time to explore the town for a bit. Ponte de Lima was a great little town! The bridge (Ponte) over the river Lima is an ancient Roman bridge. The street along the river had many mercados (markets) and shops. I was exploring the markets when I ran into Bobbie, apparently she had been having some feet issue and she had walked two short days. As we caught up on our journeys, we explored Ponte de Lima together. Later in the evening we went to dinner and discussed matters of the heart and soul with each other over a bottle of wine. By the time dinner and our conversation was over, Bobbie decided to head to Switzerland to see about a guy she had met on the Frances Camino to see if there was anything more to their relationship than friends (he wanted there to be, she was not sure). So, as quickly as we found each other again, we would each go our separate ways once more. Every night there are more and more pilgrims staying at the albergues and I think the nights of just a few of us are now done.
I logged another 25km (15 mile) day the following day and made my way to Ponte de Lima through Barcelos and arrived very early to my destination for the day. In Barcelos I discovered the story as to why the cock (rooster) is the symbol of Portugal and the influence of St. James in Portugal. Since I had arrived early to Ponte de Lime and the albergue would not open until 5:00 p.m., I had time to explore the town for a bit. Ponte de Lima was a great little town! The bridge (Ponte) over the river Lima is an ancient Roman bridge. The street along the river had many mercados (markets) and shops. I was exploring the markets when I ran into Bobbie, apparently she had been having some feet issue and she had walked two short days. As we caught up on our journeys, we explored Ponte de Lima together. Later in the evening we went to dinner and discussed matters of the heart and soul with each other over a bottle of wine. By the time dinner and our conversation was over, Bobbie decided to head to Switzerland to see about a guy she had met on the Frances Camino to see if there was anything more to their relationship than friends (he wanted there to be, she was not sure). So, as quickly as we found each other again, we would each go our separate ways once more. Every night there are more and more pilgrims staying at the albergues and I think the nights of just a few of us are now done.
The path I experienced the next day reminded me of portions of the Appalachian Trail and my sister would have really enjoyed this 19km (11 mile) section. Though it was shorter than other days there were quite a few boulder scrambles that were pretty steep. I pushed through the uphill (running out of water) to beat the rain that started once I hit the descent. Rubiaes was a small town that hosted 2 cafes with one also being the grocery store. The store shelves (along the walls only) were packed with various food items and I was amazed how much different stuff could be stuffed in such a small place. It was good that I, and others, had made our supply purchases that evening as Hannah came in very late and we all offered her something from our bags. The pilgrim life is pretty simple and one that leads to helping other pilgrims in their time of need.
The next day was my final 25km (15m) in Portugal. As I have traveled through this country, I have come to love the pace and passion of it. Though people have told me that the Portuguese are standoffish, I did not find that to be true. Everywhere I went I was greeted and had many conversations. Perhaps it was because I was on the Camino, that I cannot be sure of; however, their interactions with me has made me feel like a friend visiting through their country, not an unwanted tourist. As I passed through Valenca into Tuy I said goodbye to Portugal and hello to Spain and the last 100km(ish) of my pilgrimage. Valenca and Tuy are each on opposite sides of the river that forms the border between Portugal and Spain. They each have great things to explore. The fortress in Valenca is a must see as well as the cathedral in Tuy. As a special treat to myself I stayed in a hotel and washed up my clothes. My traveler's tip to everyone is that a bidet makes a mighty fine wash tub.
The next day was my final 25km (15m) in Portugal. As I have traveled through this country, I have come to love the pace and passion of it. Though people have told me that the Portuguese are standoffish, I did not find that to be true. Everywhere I went I was greeted and had many conversations. Perhaps it was because I was on the Camino, that I cannot be sure of; however, their interactions with me has made me feel like a friend visiting through their country, not an unwanted tourist. As I passed through Valenca into Tuy I said goodbye to Portugal and hello to Spain and the last 100km(ish) of my pilgrimage. Valenca and Tuy are each on opposite sides of the river that forms the border between Portugal and Spain. They each have great things to explore. The fortress in Valenca is a must see as well as the cathedral in Tuy. As a special treat to myself I stayed in a hotel and washed up my clothes. My traveler's tip to everyone is that a bidet makes a mighty fine wash tub.
Valenca fortress on the left and Tuy cathedral on the right.
My first day walking in Spain brought new way markers that showed the mileage remaining to Santiago. On one hand it is nice to see how much farther you have the go and on the other it can make the kms drag when you thought you had gone farther than you had. The 23km (14 miles) I walked to Mos were pretty good, though the morning seemed to drag. The straight 3km walk through an industrial area I thought would never end and I was glad to find a cafe for lunch immediately after. I do not find the Spanish as inviting as the Portuguese and I am a bit disappointed. I also have to be aware that shops open later in the morning and close in the early afternoons for siesta and that they close fairly early in the evenings, despite having siesta in the afternoon. Rachel, Katiana (the nurses from Germany) and I went to dinner at the local bar. We had arrived a bit too early (7:00 p.m.) for dinner but had a few drinks until the cook arrived. It was good that we did arrive early as it was the "big" football (soccer) game and the entire town (very small village) turned out to watch the game. It was fun to witness the friendly rivalry between family members and tables as the two teams faced off. This was also the first place I had seen that had Halloween decorations out - what a nice surprise.
Pontevedra was the next day's destination and was a 28km (17 mile) walk. The mornings have been getting colder and today was the first day I had to wear my jacket. I had avoided it as long as I could as I could not fit my cast in the sleeve on my left arm, but was kept sufficiently warm despite being open and just hanging onto my elbow. To my dismay I passed the albergue in Pontevedra and walked an extra 3 or 4km I did not need to. I ran into the German nurses as they arrived and we discussed our day as they did their laundry and I updated my journal. Pontevedra is a fairly industrial town and there was not much to see except the old Roman bridge which I would cross over the next morning. I was very tired from the day's long walk and after dinner with Rachel, Katiana, and Ulga (Russia) I hit the sack.
Pontevedra was the next day's destination and was a 28km (17 mile) walk. The mornings have been getting colder and today was the first day I had to wear my jacket. I had avoided it as long as I could as I could not fit my cast in the sleeve on my left arm, but was kept sufficiently warm despite being open and just hanging onto my elbow. To my dismay I passed the albergue in Pontevedra and walked an extra 3 or 4km I did not need to. I ran into the German nurses as they arrived and we discussed our day as they did their laundry and I updated my journal. Pontevedra is a fairly industrial town and there was not much to see except the old Roman bridge which I would cross over the next morning. I was very tired from the day's long walk and after dinner with Rachel, Katiana, and Ulga (Russia) I hit the sack.
This week's walking offered a lot of introspection and was an eventful internal week for me.
CAUTION: MEDITATION ZONE
I got into a zone while walking where I was subconsciously counting to 100 with my footsteps over and over. I was not keeping track and I would get lost in thought and not realize that I was even doing it, but every once in a while I would notice that I was counting again (still). I also started to stop and touch each crucero (cross) I passed to give thanks for making it there and releasing everything behind me in the previous section. Along with the subconscious counting mantra, this little ritual became part of my walking meditation.
GHOST FROM THE PAST: CROSSING OVER
My last night in Porto I had a dream about my ex. It always bothers me the next morning when I dream of him as I always think I have dealt with all the issues from that past relationship; however, this dream made me realize that there was one thing I had not resolved internally. During our marriage there was an incident in which he had already removed himself emotionally from our relationship but in which he blamed me for the cause. Of course at the time, being the "good wife", I took the blame. From that point on I felt I was not the woman I should or could be for him. That incident emotionally left me in a perpetual feeling of inadequacy and I too started to withdraw emotionally from our relationship. So, in the dream this incident came up again, however the response changed. I did not take the blame and I pointed out that he had already removed himself emotionally from our relationship and that there was nothing I could do or say to remedy the situation nor bring him back to the road we both once shared - the end was inevitable and I was not inadequate as a person or woman. It is too bad that honesty and clarity could not have prevailed on that day as it would have saved us both a few years and a lot of tears.
After this dream and thinking back to the original incident, I decided it was time to let go of the feelings that I should have been a better wife and done more, that I was in some way inadequate as a person and woman. Now was the time to let go of that past. I know that I have a lot to offer others. I know that I have my strengths and weaknesses. I know that I am worth loving. I know that I can be that special someone to that special someone who will allow me to show my weaknesses and accept them along with my strengths.
PHOTO OP: CLEARER PICTURE OF THE MIND
As the thoughts ebbed and flowed through my mind, surfacing and submerging while I walked along the path there were a few things that came to the forefront of my thoughts. The big decisions I made this week:
1. I will return to the US sooner than I had planned.
2. I will not return to Mississippi to live (I will visit).
3. I will look for a new career working with special events planning and/or organization.
I realize that some of you may be surprised by these decisions and some of you will not. Some of you may be a bit disappointed as well. Know that these decisions are what I feel I need to do and that these decisions bring a clarity to my mind and a peace to my heart. Now to work on my "exit strategy" and to come up with a plan for these decisions while I finish my Camino.
CAUTION: MEDITATION ZONE
I got into a zone while walking where I was subconsciously counting to 100 with my footsteps over and over. I was not keeping track and I would get lost in thought and not realize that I was even doing it, but every once in a while I would notice that I was counting again (still). I also started to stop and touch each crucero (cross) I passed to give thanks for making it there and releasing everything behind me in the previous section. Along with the subconscious counting mantra, this little ritual became part of my walking meditation.
GHOST FROM THE PAST: CROSSING OVER
My last night in Porto I had a dream about my ex. It always bothers me the next morning when I dream of him as I always think I have dealt with all the issues from that past relationship; however, this dream made me realize that there was one thing I had not resolved internally. During our marriage there was an incident in which he had already removed himself emotionally from our relationship but in which he blamed me for the cause. Of course at the time, being the "good wife", I took the blame. From that point on I felt I was not the woman I should or could be for him. That incident emotionally left me in a perpetual feeling of inadequacy and I too started to withdraw emotionally from our relationship. So, in the dream this incident came up again, however the response changed. I did not take the blame and I pointed out that he had already removed himself emotionally from our relationship and that there was nothing I could do or say to remedy the situation nor bring him back to the road we both once shared - the end was inevitable and I was not inadequate as a person or woman. It is too bad that honesty and clarity could not have prevailed on that day as it would have saved us both a few years and a lot of tears.
After this dream and thinking back to the original incident, I decided it was time to let go of the feelings that I should have been a better wife and done more, that I was in some way inadequate as a person and woman. Now was the time to let go of that past. I know that I have a lot to offer others. I know that I have my strengths and weaknesses. I know that I am worth loving. I know that I can be that special someone to that special someone who will allow me to show my weaknesses and accept them along with my strengths.
PHOTO OP: CLEARER PICTURE OF THE MIND
As the thoughts ebbed and flowed through my mind, surfacing and submerging while I walked along the path there were a few things that came to the forefront of my thoughts. The big decisions I made this week:
1. I will return to the US sooner than I had planned.
2. I will not return to Mississippi to live (I will visit).
3. I will look for a new career working with special events planning and/or organization.
I realize that some of you may be surprised by these decisions and some of you will not. Some of you may be a bit disappointed as well. Know that these decisions are what I feel I need to do and that these decisions bring a clarity to my mind and a peace to my heart. Now to work on my "exit strategy" and to come up with a plan for these decisions while I finish my Camino.
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